I'm going to assume that anyone reading this website has a pretty good grasp of soldering. That said, if just one of the things listed here makes someone go "Hey, I didn't know that!" then the whole thing will be worth it. I've been soldering stuff for a long time1.
Copied from Wikipedia:
Common solder formulations based on tin and lead are listed below.
The fraction represent percentage of tin first, then lead, totaling 100%:
The SX-28s were made with globs of Sn60 and the wires were thoroughly wrapped around the terminals to prevent cold solder joints.
Here's some tips:
Heat rises. Put your iron under the joint if possible.
Get your soldering iron tip wet with just a touch of new solder to help pass heat from the iron to the joint.
Here's a technique that helps prevent damage to an 80 year old terminal. First, suck off as much solder as possible.
For this piece, I just held it in a pair of needle nose pliers, got it good and melted, and flicked the loose stuff onto the bench.
For terminals still in the radio, you'll need a solder sucker or wicking wire.
The 1st pic shows the wires wrapped around the terminal. The 2nd pic shows me cutting off the loops around the outside of the
terminal. Warning: the little bits really go flying. Guard your eyes. Be careful cutting
the loops; you don't want to get part of the terminal too. The 3rd pic shows the
terminal ready to be reheated again. Most of the wire pieces will just fall out now.

When working on a tube pin, remove the tube first. The tube's internal wires are soldered to the pins and if you inadvertently melt that solder, you could cause the solder to drain back into the tube and cause an open. This would be very difficult to detect or repair.
Footnotes:
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Last modified: Friday, 24 Apr 2026